New York’s Staten Island. Massimo Felici destroyed a run-down storefront at 704 Bay St. seven years ago using his own hands and a friend who was a carpenter.He rebuilt VINUM, a well-known restaurant with six Michelin-starred reviews throughout a seven-year tenure, keeping just the checkered tile backsplash from the previous tenant.
Felici declared he would close the place by Saturday, Nov. 30, despite the emotional and sweat equity attached to it. He listed the dismal post-COVID economy, historically high staple food costs, and Stapleton’s crime rate as the causes.
Felici thanked the customers who have supported him from the restaurant’s founding in a farewell video he shared on social media on Wednesday morning. He told the Advance/SILive.com that he was upset by the decision to close, particularly after fighting to stay open during the COVID-19 pandemic.
The Tuscan-born chef at VINUM had a few viral moments during the March–August 2020 dining room shutdowns and capacity limits. One of these was his quick and temporary switch to selling toilet paper, cleaning supplies, and online wine tastings.
Reinventing a block with a restaurant
According to Felici, it was difficult for him to reach the point when he was inserting the key into the door. About eight years ago, he moved to Staten Island from the restaurant scene in Manhattan, and the Stapleton address he gave featured a noteworthy rotating door of culinary concepts. His friends called him outrightcrazyfor setting up shop on thisvery block.
Felici had no fear at the onset, he maintained. He has seen other chefs in New York City revitalize once-distressed areas such as Flatbush, Williamsburg, Red Hook, and Bed Stuy.
Stapleton appeared to be no exception. And he saw great charm and promise in this swath of the North Shore. Plus, lease terms from a generous landlord were further incentives to put down roots.
“I thought we were living in the Renaissance,” remembers Felici.
So confident in the future here several years ago, Felici purchased land nearby and became a homeowner. He took an initial partnership in a place across the street, The Richmond, which closed in August. His wife,Deya, managed VINUM while Felici ran their other properties,Don Cheechand the food service contract atCasa Belvederesupper club on Grymes Hill.
What truly killed VINUM?
Since those inaugural days in the restaurant business, Felici weathered the COVID-19 pandemic. Even with some government aid, he said, long-term survival just wasn t sustainable.
Butthe area is what ultimately killed him, he maintained.
Felici said,Did it get better since these multi-million dollar drug busts directly across the street from VINUM? Definitelythere are less of the drug addicts running around the neighborhood, one hundred percent. Remember I live right here. I see it. I experience it. Are they still there? Yes.
And while he s advocated for brighter lighting and increased video surveillancethose have taken over two yearsto be realized he thinks it s too late to change public perception. The restaurant collection at nearby Urby residential is a blessing. However, the two areas are a Tale of Two Cities with perceived safety.
Even with enormous kudos to elected officials and the District Attorney s Office, he described the local drug scene on his section of Bay Street as a land of The Walking Dead. And it rips his heart out.
Felici confessed, I am so sad for these people who need help. I think of their families their mother, their father, their siblings. I ll bet their families don t even know where they are.”
Moving forward
Felici tried selling VINUM. After months on the market, takers included entrepreneurs in the business of fried chicken, Chinese or Mexican cooking.
They all said to me basically the same thing, Boss, you are very well-known. You couldn t make it? What . . . amIgoing to do there? said Felici.
He added, I m going to give the keys back to the landlord. I m taking a bloodbath but I have to stop the bleeding.
Felici said, Let s say tomorrow, there s no more drugs. By the time people s perception of the neighborhood changes, it really is going to be too late.
He added, I want people to know that despite VINUM closing I still love Stapleton and Bay Street. I am still going to be very active with advocating for the community with tree-bed cleaning and planting, more beautification.
A steely reserve keeps him optimistic and very much grounded on Bay Street, he explained. In the area around Don Cheech among Fort Wadsworth, Shore Acres and Rosebank, for instance, he wanted to talk about great things underway.
As president of theRosebank Merchant s Association, he will busy himself with aWinter Village on Sunday, Dec. 15, from 2 to 6 p.m.Bay Street will shut down between Evelyn Place to Belair Road. There will be food for sampling and a neighborhood literally taken to celebrating in the streets with Santa.
He said, Even with mistakes, I have to look to a future for my children and family. And I have no doubt that in America, living here in the greatest city on earth, incredible things are possible.
Pamela Silvestri is Advance/SILive.com food editor. She can be reached [email protected].
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